Eating in Style at Pennsic: Period Style
Introduction
One of my very first events in the
SCA was Pennsic. A friend convinced
Despina my then- fiancé’, now-wife, and I that Pennsic was a “must-attend”
event. We decided that a
week-and-a-half long event sounded like a great way to finally get going on this
whole SCA thing.
I knew that we would have to do
something about food, however I just wasn’t sure what. In addition to being proficient in the
kitchen, I had been subscribed to the “SCA cooks list”, as well as looking at
the period cookbooks I had collected (more about those will follow). It seemed to me that the way to do
Pennsic was with all period, non-cooler food. My theory was that this was a war and in
period there wouldn’t have been coolers of ice (or appliances) to refrigerate
food. Therefore, Despina and I
decided that to make our time at Pennsic as period as possible; we would do all
that we could for people starting out.
Looking at the cookbooks I had, I put together a menu of period dishes
which would not require a cooler the entire time we were at
War.
The books
Before I go any further into
explaining how I pulled off that first year, as well as some of the things that
I have learned along the way, I want to take a moment to discuss the most
important tool that an SCA cook has at his/her disposal... period cookbooks. There are three basic types of Medieval
cookbooks: those which attempt to make period food, but do not rely on period
recipes; those which have both period recipes as well as “redactions”
(modernizations of the recipes); and those which contain only period recipes
(usually facsimiles or collections of facsimiles). This article will deal exclusively with
the latter two (try to avoid the first, if you can).
When you first start out
doing period recipes, it is often helpful to have some sort of guide. Most period recipes won’t tell you how
much of each ingredient to add, that tends to be something you learn over time
(and why we can never TRULY re-create a food item, as we can only cook it for
our modern pallet in a similar manner to that which was done in period). The best cookbooks with which to start
are ones that have a modern version (henceforth “redaction”) worked out. Pleyn Delit, The
Miscelleny, Medieval Kitchens, and Take a Thousand Eggs or More
(Volumes I and II) are all very good places to begin. The Miscelleny is a wonderful
book put together by Duke Cariadoc of the Bow (David Friedman) and has, in
addition to a number of redacted recipes, articles on various other parts of SCA
life. My other favorite from this
list is Take a Thousand Eggs or More, by Cindy Renfrow (henceforth
“TTEM”). TTEM is a collection of
medieval recipes where you can find both the original recipes, as well as
modernizations of the language.
There are also a number of recipes for which a redaction has been
worked-out.
My favorite form of period
cookbook is a facsimile copy of a period text. In these you get to deal with strange
fonts, un-standardized spelling, as well as a lack of measurements. These cookbooks, however, give you the
best chance of trying to create your own redactions.
Pulling off a Period
Pennsic
One of my first finds was a recipe
for “Lord’s Salt” in the Miscelleny.
Lord’s Salt is a period recipe for pickling cooked meat. While this may sound gross, it is
extremely tasty! The recipe calls
for a number of strong spices and vinegar to allow cooked meat to keep for
well-over 6 months (personal observation).
As long as I picked a meat recipe that used the same spices as the
pickle, this meat fit in well (for examples, see the menus at the end of this
article).
The second year we went to
Pennsic, I began experimenting with salting meat. This also turned out to be really easy
if you followed period recipes for salting meat (Such as the instructions given
in Le Managier de Paris, which can be found on Cariadoc’s webpage at
www.best.com/~ddfr/Medieval/Medieval.html, or in Friedman, 1991). I salted beef, lamb and chicken (even
though Managier says not to salt fowl) and it worked out quite well. Meat can be salted as far in advance as
you want, but I try to always start it at least two days before the event. That way you have time to change the
salt once or twice. I have been
using everyday table salt (because it is extremely inexpensive), however this
year I am panning to use a coarse grained salt, which is closer to what would
have been used in period. It may
also help the meat desalinize faster.
The only drawback to salted meat
is that you have to plan ahead.
When you want to use the meat, you need to start soaking it in water
about 12-18 hours in advance. Just
put the meat in a container full of water and then change the water at least 6-7
times throughout the day. Our rule
is that whenever Despina or I walk past the soaking meat, we change the
water. This works out pretty
well.
‘Okay,’ you’re probably thinking,
‘so you can preserve meat... What about the hard stuff life eggs?’ One of the Australians on the Cook’s
List mentioned that they had been able to keep eggs unrefrigerated for long
periods of time by waxing them with paraffin. While I have not found period evidence
for waxing eggs (most likely live chickens would have been brought, something
that is not possible at Pennsic), it works. So that’s my one big anachronism. This past Pennsic, I didn’t have
paraffin on-hand, so I used beeswax.
Beeswax provides a harder coat than paraffin, a pretty yellow color, and
a nice smell. I’ll probably use
beeswax again in the future. If you
want to hard-boil your eggs, much of the wax will come off as they are
boiling. This isn’t a problem as
long as you have a special (read “cheap”) pot for boiling waxed eggs. I personally use a $3.50 special from
Meijer. Someday I hope to have
enough period cooking pots that I can afford to designate one for waxed
eggs.
Milk is also not a problem. A number of period recipes call for
almond milk for which there are several recipes. Almond milk was often used in Lent, as
well as to help flavor dishes like Blancmange (a chicken and rice dish). To make almond milk one crushes
blanched, skinned almonds and steeps them in boiling water. The oils in the almonds combine with the
water to make a milky-like liquid that can then be used to replace cow’s
milk.
The key to doing fruits and
vegetables was finding ones that had not been refrigerated. The supermarket tries to keep everything
lovely and moist and cool, but this practice reduces the survivability of the
vegetable outside of its cooled environment. The best solution is to grow the
vegetables that are called for in your menu and pick them right before you leave
for Pennsic. Lettuce keeps much
better that way, as does spinach and chard.
I picked a bread recipe (though
slightly post-period) with a high baking temperature. Due to the high temperature the crust is
extremely hard and helps the bread keep longer. Having just discovered how easy and safe
it is to build a period beehive oven, I may try to get one together for next
Pennsic. There are also a number of
webpages that have information on how to build a “dirt-mound” oven, as I like to
call them. I think the beehive oven
will work better though, and I am much happier with its documentation. If I build an oven, I can have fresh
bread, which will let me use one of the few extant period bread recipes (period
recipes for bread are not common for whatever reason).
For drinks, I bring along a lot of
mead (which I make at home), pomegranate syrup for making drinks, hippocras
powder (for another period drink), as well as drinking water (which of course
isn’t really documented).
Period snacks turned out to be
easier than the rest of the menu...
Fruits and hard cheese kept well and so I brought them along. Many of the period cheese are hard
cheeses, which is convenient. I
also made the Fine Cakes recipe from Dawson’s The Good Huswife’s Jewel (a
late period source). These
shortbread-like cookies kept amazingly well, until the people with whom I was
camping discovered them. After
that, the cookies didn’t go bad...
they just disappeared. I
also made Hais and Hulwa from recipes in the Miscelleny. Hais is a sweet date-dall and Hulwa
comes out like sesame-nut candies (Or pistachio-balls as one friend calls
them). As I have moved away from
basing my menu on Lord’s Salt, I have discovered that pieces of the pickled
meat, along with some hunks of bread and a little cheese make a terrific snack
(or lunch for that matter).
This past Pennsic, I brought
homemade marzipan. For those of you
who dislike commercial marzipan (like me), try making it from a period
recipe. It is not as sweet and has
a much stronger almond taste. I
couldn’t have brought enough marzipan.
In fact, the ingredients for marzipan kept appearing in our campsite
along with volunteers to work the mortar and pestle in order to get
more.
The only real problem with
designing a period, non-cooler menu is deciding when to serve which dish. We don’t have a good handle on what,
other than left-overs, was served for breakfast, so I tend to make the things
that we, in our modern world, have come to associate with that meal. I have period recipes for waffles,
poached eggs, “french toast”, rice pudding and a number of other breakfasty
dishes (see menus below).
A Word about Food
Safety
No one has ever gotten sick from
food that I prepared at Pennsic. I
am extremely careful about cleanliness and leaving food out, however I am not
paranoid. Modernly, I work with
pathogens, which fuels my vigilance.
When working with fresh meats, be sure to clean as you go along. Don’t reuse utensils that have been near
raw meats before washing them. If
food is left out for long periods of time (more than an hour, contrary to
popular belief, harmful bacteria don’t instantaneously find your food and
reproduce themselves all over it) reheat it above 100F. Don’t keep food for days on end, unless
you know it will keep. In general,
if you are not sure about it, don’t serve it. While cleanliness is important, don’t go
overboard. Make sure that you rinse
everything and if you bleach your utensils give them a quick rinse
afterwards. Bleach and soap
residues can make you sick, just like bacteria can.
Conclusion
By salting and pickling meat,
using hard cheeses, replacing milk with a period substitute, and waxing eggs I
have been able to enjoy 3 Pennsics of varied menus without a cooler or
refrigeration. No one has gotten
sick from any of the food that I made and having period food in a period manner
improves my time at Pennsic. It
brings Despina and I closer to the Dream, closer to successful
re-enactment. As Despina often
says, she eats better at Pennsic than she does all the rest of the year. Period cooking is something about which
I feel strongly and I would be more than happy to help anyone who is interested
in doing more of it. I can be
reached by email ([email protected]) or by phone (217)
355-5702.
In
Service to the Dream.
Cu
drag,
Ld.
Bogdan de la Brasov, CW
Selected
Menus
Abbreviations:
Misc. = _The Miscelleny_,
Cariadoc and Elizabeth
MK = _The Medieval Kitchen
Recipes from France and Italy_, Redon et al.
TTEM(I/II) = _Take a
Thousand Eggs or More_, Cindy Renfrow
Pennsic XXVII Menu by
Meal:
Breakfast:
Pan
bread
Eggs
Bread
Cyuele (Sweetened eggs and
almonds. TTEM II. pg.
309)
Apple Muse (apple sauce)
(TTEM II pg. 540)
Tanseye (eggs with
Tansey) (TTEM II pg.
28)
Potage de egges (scrambled) (TTEM I pg.
24)
Malasade (TTEM I pg.
22)
Hanoney (TTEM I pg.
30)
Lunch:
Smoked
Meat
Lord's Salt Meat (Misc. pg
110)
Cheese
Pan
de Campagne (post period)
Counterfeit isfiriya of
Garbanzos (almost falafel. Misc.
pg. 33)
Fruit
Snacks:
Smoked meat and Lord's Salt
meat (Misc. pg. 110)
Veggies, Fruits (fresh and
Dried)
Cheese
Hais (Dates and Sesame...
Misc. pg. 78)
Tostee (Misc. pg.
78)
Rice Pottage (MK pg. 201,
TTEM I, pg.18-19)
Hulwa (Honey version, rolled
in sesame. Misc. Pg. 98)
Fine Cakes (from Dawson’s
The Good Huswife’s Jewel)
Cansiones (Almond and sugar
filled rolls. Misc. pg. 80)
Breads:
Bread (Misc. pg.
8)
Pan
de campagne (Post Period)
Dinners:
NOTE: All meats were
preserved with the "Lord's Salt" recipe found in
the
Miscelleny on page 110.
Armored Turnips (Misc. pg.
13)
Makke (Beans and onions
Misc. pg. 15)
Roast of Meat (Misc. pg.
26)
Preparing covered Tabahjiyya
(meat and onions covered with dough Misc. pg.
37)
Zirbaya (Meat dish with
thick sauce. Misc. pg.
46)
Cooked fried Chicken (Misc.
pg 45)
Counterfeit isfiriya of
Garbanzos (almost falafel. Misc.
pg. 33)
Fresh Beans with Meat,
called Fustuqiyya (Misc. pg. 25)
Carbonata (salted meat with
sauce. MK pg. 96)
Chickpea Soup (MK pg.
56)
Drinks:
Water
Sekanjabin (Misc. pg.
104)
Hippocras (Misc. pg.
104)
Mead
PENNSIC XXIX (2000)
MENU
Breakfasts:
Poached Eggs (in sweet wine
and with sugar spice and vinegar as per Platina)
Waffles (a couple of days,
as we have different recipes...)
scrambled eggs
(TTEM)
Brown Frys/Lost Bread
(French Toast) (TTEM)
Pokerounce (toast with
spiced honey) (TTEM)
Potage of Rys
(TTEM)
Lunches:
Jerky
fruits
cheeses
sausages
stuffed eggs (period deviled
eggs. Redaction by Ld. Ras (LJ
Spencer)
White pie
(Platina)
Lord's Salt and Bread
(Miscelleny)
Dinners:
Alows de Beef (rolled, not
ribs variety) (TTEM)
Steaks (with mustard as one
should serve with salted meat) (Le Managier in Friedman,
1991)
Ravioli (Sabina
Weslerin)
Meat Roman Style
(Platina)
Kid
in Garlic (Platina)
Pork cuts
(Platina)
Blancmange
(TTEM)
White dish (Dumplings)
(Platina)
Meat Pie
(Platina)
Armoured Turnips and Pears
in Wine Syrup
Appetizer of meat
(Platina... period burgers, sort of...)
Literature
Cited
Sources with
redactions:
Friedman, D. and Cook,
E. 1996. A Miscelleny. 7th
edition.
Hieatt, C. Hosington, B. and Butler, S. 1997. Pleyn Delit: Medieval Cookery for Modern Cooks.
2nd Edition.
University of Toronto Press.
Toronto, Ont.
Redon, O. Sabban, F, and
Serventi, S. 1998. The Medieval Kitchen: Recipes from
France and Italy. University of
Chicago Press. Chicago, Il.
Renfrow, C. 1990. Take and Thousand Eggs or More: A
collection of 15th century recipes Volume
I.
Renfrow, C. 1990. Take and Thousand Eggs or More:
A collection of 15th century recipes Volume
II
Sass, LJ. 1976. To the Queen’s Taste. Metropolitan Museum of
Art.
Sources without
redactions:
Armstrong, V (transl.). Das
Kuchbuch der Sabrina Welserin (1553)
http://www.best.com/~ddfr/Medieval/Cookbooks/Sabrina_Welserin.html
Dawson, 1597. The Good Hus-wives
Jewell.
Friedman, D. and Cook,
E. 1991. A collection of Medieval and
Renaissance Cookbooks.
6th Edition
Milham, ME. 1998. Platina. On Right Pleasure and Good
Health. Medieval and
Renaissance Text and Studies.
Tempe, Az.